You bought a manual davit, and now your back wants a motor. Converting can work, and it can save money. But it only works when a handful of things line up, and when they don't, a conversion can cost more than doing it right the first time. Here's how to check before you spend anything.

Short answer: Often, yes. A manual davit can sometimes take an electric motor if the pipe diameter and wall thickness match the motor package and the mount is solid. You'll also need proper wiring, a fuse or breaker, a switch, and enough battery. If the davit is too light or the mount is loose, replacing it is safer.

Why Fishermen Convert

The pattern is common. A fisherman starts with a manual puller on a small boat and loves how it keeps pots off the hull. Then the season gets busier. Pots get heavier. A bad shoulder or back starts asking for help. The davit still works, the mount is solid, and the idea of keeping them and adding power makes sense.

Sometimes it does. Sometimes the davit was never built for a motor. The difference is in the details below.

Step 1: Check Your Pipe

An electric motor package is built for a specific davit diameter. Measure your pipe's outside diameter. Remember that davit sizes are nominal: a "1.5-inch" pipe measures about 1.9" across the outside, and a "2-inch" pipe about 2.375".

Next, find out whether your davit is Schedule 40 or Schedule 80. Both share the same outside diameter, and the difference is wall thickness. That wall thickness decides how well the arm handles a motor's added weight and twisting force. A Schedule 80 arm has more margin. A Schedule 40 arm may be fine for light use but flex more under a motor.

Our 1.5" electric motor package is built for 1.5" davits. Contact us with your davit's details, and we'll confirm whether it fits your setup.

Step 2: Inspect the Mount

A motor adds weight at the top of the arm, which increases the leverage on the base every time you pull. A mount that wobbled under hand pulling will wobble more under a motor, and the stress lands on your gunnel.

Before converting, check that:

• The mount is sleeved and fits the pipe tight, without play
• Every fastener is fully tightened and bedded in sealant
• There's a backing plate under the gunnel, especially on thin hulls
• The sleeve isn't worn

If the mount needs replacing, do it now. We build 1.5" davit mounts as sleeved, aluminum systems so the arm sits solid under load.

Step 3: Plan the Electrical Side

This is where conversions go wrong most often. A motor needs its own dedicated, fused circuit. It draws real current under load, much more than a bilge pump or navigation lights.

Plan for:

• Wire sized to the motor's draw and the run length. Voltage drop over a long run makes a motor feel weak. Boating Magazine's install guide points to Blue Sea's online wire-size calculator for choosing gauge.
• A fuse or breaker rated for your motor, mounted close to the battery
• A switch rated for the load
• Marine-grade, sealed connections that resist corrosion

Don't share the circuit with a lighter accessory. A puller needs its own line.

Step 4: Check Your Battery

If your battery only supports starting and a few lights, the puller may drain it faster than you expect, or fall short on voltage under load. A weak battery shows up as slow pulls and tripped breakers. Consider a dedicated battery or more capacity if you pull often.

Convert or Replace: A Quick Decision Guide

Convert if:

• Your davit is Schedule 80 and in good shape
• The pipe diameter matches the motor package
• Your mount is sound
• Your boat's electrical system can support the load

Replace if:

• The davit is Schedule 40 and you plan heavy, frequent use
• The pipe size or wall doesn't match
• The mount is worn or the gunnel is soft
• You'd need a new mount, new wiring, and a battery upgrade anyway

When most of the system needs replacing, a complete electric hauler is usually the cleaner path. It's built as one system, with the motor, davit, and mount designed to work together, and it comes with instructions for the fuse and wire it needs.

Common Conversion Mistakes

Skipping the mount check. A new motor on a loose mount is the fastest way to stress a gunnel.

Reusing downrigger wiring. It's rarely sized for a puller's current.

Undersized wire. It looks fine until the motor bogs down on a heavy pot.

Forgetting corrosion protection. Saltwater finds weak connections quickly.

Ignoring height. A taller arm and a motor together put more leverage on the base. Make sure your mount and gunnel can take it.

What a Conversion Really Costs

A conversion isn't just the motor. Add up the motor package, any mount replacement, wire, fuse or breaker, switch, connectors, and possibly a battery. Compare that total against a complete electric hauler. Sometimes conversion is clearly cheaper. Sometimes the gap is small enough that buying a complete system makes more sense.

FAQs

Can any manual davit take a motor?
No. The pipe diameter, wall thickness, and mount all need to be compatible.

Is converting cheaper than buying electric?
Sometimes, if everything fits. If you need a new mount and wiring anyway, the gap narrows.

Do I need a bigger battery?
Possibly. Check the motor's amp draw against your battery capacity.

Can I convert a Schedule 40 davit?
It depends on the motor and your use. Heavy, frequent hauling favors Schedule 80.

Do I need a special switch?
You need one rated for the motor's current. We offer a 12VDC 50-amp on/off switch made for EZ Puller models.

Who can confirm compatibility?
Our team can check your davit against our motor package before you buy.

Check Your Davit Before You Buy

Send us your pipe size, wall schedule, and mount type, and we'll tell you whether conversion makes sense or whether a new hauler is the better route. Contact our team with your details. If you're also upgrading your wiring, our electrical accessories collection has the switch and parts built for EZ Puller models.